LED under cabinet lighting turns a dim counter into a bright, shadow-free work surface, while puck lights add a warm accent inside glass cabinets, bookcases and display shelves. This category brings together LED puck lights, under cabinet bars, strip kits and rechargeable models, in 12 V, 24 V and 120 V versions.
It serves homeowners finishing a kitchen, cabinetmakers and kitchen designers who need fixtures that fit under a cabinet or into a shelf, and contractors or retailers lighting display cases. You will find models from Ortech, Liteline, Lumenstarled, Bazz, Canolight, Nexleds, Arani and Turolight, many of them dimmable and several with selectable colour temperature.
A puck is a small round or square fixture that mounts on the surface or sits recessed in a shelf or a cabinet bottom. The LED puck lights range from the Ortech superslim (2.2 W, 150 lm) to the Ortech 3 W puck (240 lm, CRI 90+, three selectable colour temperatures, 12 V DC, dimmable). Gimbal pucks in 2 and 3 in (2 W and 180 lm, 3 W and 300 lm) tilt to aim the light at a shelf or an object.
The LED puck #2000 comes in round, square, scoop and louver versions, the #600 in round or square, and 24 V models such as the Canolight 3CCT puck (3 W, 220 lm, CRI 80+) have an aluminum ring and housing. Lumenstarled RD7 (12 V, 2 W) and RD15 (12 V DC, 3 W) pucks can be surface mounted or recessed, and the modular Arani V2 puck (2.2 W, 170 lm, 3000 K) takes a separate mount and trim in black or brushed nickel. For colour effects, RGBW pucks like the #150R and the Nexleds smart RGBCW puck mix coloured light with white.
Under cabinet bars give a continuous line of light along the counter, ideal for food prep. The Lumenstarled LL50 is a 24 V linear fixture with an aluminum housing and plug-and-play connections, in 6, 12 or 40 in (15, 30 or 102 cm), dimmable and UL approved. Bazz direct wire bars in 12 and 24 in (380 and 820 lumens) switch between 3000, 4000 and 5000 K, and Bazz 120 V bars come in 12 in (4 W, 320 lm) or 22 in (8 W, 640 lm). The Liteline LEDBAR9 is a 9 in, 3 W bar with a 90 CRI.
For a seamless glow, use a flexible strip such as the Bazz 10 ft under-cabinet strip (3000 K, 30 LED/m) or a kit of four RGB strips with remote. You can also build your own run with indoor LED strips set in an aluminum channel, as shown in the aluminum LED profile guide. Where there is no wiring, rechargeable pucks (pack of three, 80 lumens each, 3000 K) and rechargeable bars in 8 and 24 in (4000 K) need no electrical work at all.
Both work under a cabinet, but they do not light the counter the same way. Many kitchens combine the two: bars over the work zones and pucks inside glass-front cabinets.
| Criterion | Puck lights | Under cabinet bars |
|---|---|---|
| Light pattern | Pools of light, accent effect | Even, continuous line |
| Best for | Display cabinets, shelves, bookcases | Countertops and work surfaces |
| Mounting | Surface or recessed | Surface, with clips or screws |
| Layout | Evenly spaced along the cabinet | Length matched to each cabinet section |
Mount bars and pucks toward the front edge of the cabinet bottom, so the light falls on the counter rather than on the backsplash and the fixtures stay out of sight. On a glossy or stone counter, a diffused fixture limits reflections of the LED points. Run the wiring along the back of the cabinet and keep the power supply in an accessible spot.
For more ideas, see the LED kitchen lighting page, and the display lighting page for showcases and shelving.
Voltage determines how the lights connect, so choose it first.
| Voltage | Examples | Connection |
|---|---|---|
| 12 V DC | Ortech 1.5 W and 3 W pucks, Lumenstarled RD7 and RD15, Liteline 3-puck kit | Separate power supply, suits short runs |
| 24 V DC | #200 and #600 pucks, Canolight 3CCT puck, LL50 bars | Separate power supply, less voltage drop on longer runs |
| 120 V | Bazz direct wire and 120 V bars, #900 puck, Turolight closet light | Runs on household current, no separate power supply |
Low-voltage pucks and bars need a compatible power supply sized for the total wattage: see power supplies and drivers, and the guide on choosing 12 V or 24 V LED strips, which explains sizing. Accessories keep the job tidy: the Arani system uses a 6-way hub and 3.3 ft extension cables, Ortech offers a 12 in puck extension cable, and the Liteline 3-puck kit (12 V, 2 W, 3000 K) links its pucks together. For 120 V, the Bazz universal conversion box allows a direct wire connection, to be made by a licensed electrician.
Plan roughly one puck per cabinet section, spaced evenly so the pools of light overlap slightly on the counter. Kits of three, such as the Liteline 3-puck kit or the Bazz three-puck sets, are a convenient start. For a long counter, a bar or a strip gives more uniform light.
Strips and bars give an even line of light that suits food prep, while pucks create pools of light that look best inside glass cabinets or under open shelves. Many kitchens use bars for the counter and pucks for display.
Low-voltage 12 V and 24 V pucks need a compatible LED power supply, often called a driver or transformer, to convert household power. 120 V models do without one, and rechargeable pucks need no wiring at all.
Yes, if the product is marked dimmable. With low-voltage pucks, the power supply must be dimmable and matched to the dimmer; ELV and TRIAC are the most common types. Dim-to-warm models such as the Lumenstarled RD10 also get warmer as you dim.
3000 K gives a warm, welcoming light that matches most kitchens and wood cabinets, and 4000 K a crisper light for work surfaces and white or grey finishes. With selectable models, such as the Bazz CCT select bars (3000, 4000 or 5000 K), you choose on site.
Rechargeable pucks and bars need no wiring, and low-voltage plug-and-play systems link together with connector cables. Any hardwired 120 V connection should be made by a licensed electrician.
Ready to light your counters and cabinets? Compare the LED puck lights and the under cabinet bars to find the size, voltage and colour temperature that suit your project.
